David Senia knows how to lighten up a room. Always ready with a smile, which actually resembles an impish grin, the chef de cuisine of The Ritz-Carlton Osaka's La Baie restaurant is a natural optimist with a groovy sense of humor - characteristics that make him an ideal host.

"If I go to your table and greet you, maybe the food will taste better at the end of the dinner," he says in a wink-wink tone.

Self-deprecation aside, Senia's food has a magic of its own whether or not he makes a meet-and-greet appearance in the dining room. In his 13 years as a chef, the Frenchman has worked at highly acclaimed restaurants such as the prestigious Hotel Negresco in Nice and the Michelin two-star L'Oasis in La Napoule.

Before moving to Japan, Senia worked wonders for Old Manila, the signature fine dining outlet of The Peninsula Manila. And in April, he was among the master chefs who participated in the World Gourmet Summit held in Singapore.

But there is more to Senia's positive nature - "Somehow people are too serious, they forget to love," he observes - than typical French charm. Japan has certainly contributed a lot to his sense of well being.

Back when he was still in the Philippines, Senia sought the advice of Christophe Megel, executive chef of Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore, who informed him of the opening in Osaka. "He told me if I want to move on, you have to go to the right country," Senia recalls.

Japan proved to be the right country for Senia. "It's completely different. Nothing to compare," Senia says when asked about working in Manila and Osaka. In La Baie, he has a brigade of 20 cooks, three sommeliers and 15 waiters for a restaurant that seats only 50. While his cooks are all Japanese, he boasts that they also know how to speak French.

Demanding Diners

Although he admits that labor in Japan is expensive, Senia has nothing but praise for his local staff, whom he admires for their dedicated work ethic, energy and sense of team spirit. While the atmosphere in the kitchen can be tough at times and heated words are sometimes exchanged, "there's still respect."

"We're not workaholics," he says of the job that entails long hours. "We just enjoy it."

Having a solid team in the kitchen comes in handy considering the high expectations of the Japanese consumers, which account for a big chunk of the hotel's business. "They're very demanding," he says. "They travel a lot and spend money. Believe me, they are not afraid to spend US$350 for one dinner."

Le Baie is a French fine dining restaurant that specializes in seafood and seasonal a la carte specialties - quite similar to Ritz-Carlton Millenia Singapore's Snappers, which hosted Senia during the World Gourmet Summit. Le Baie has a selection of more than 400 wines, and various cheeses are offered by wagon service.

Senia describes it simply as "Ritz-Carlton" in style. "It's a very classical style of French fine dining with silverware and china," he says of the restaurant, adding that French and Italian cuisine are tops among Japanese diners.

The menu features three distinct culinary styles: a regional French menu that changes every two months; a seafood menu; and one that's simply dubbed "David's Creations." The eponymous list consists of 24 small-portioned dishes that are changed every two months.

Senia describes his personal style as a combination of French technique with "the beauty of Japan," as suggested by dishes such as Foie Gras Terrine with Daikon and Ponzu Jelly, Crispy Scallop served with Warm Tapenade of Red Onion and Water Tomato, and Roasted Mint Tea Lamb with Paillasson Potatoes and Tarragon-flavored Cherry Vinegar Sauce.

"David's Creations" take this style a step further, with Senia doing a balancing act using "all these items around the world," and plated with an artistic flair. "Sometimes we go wild," he admits, "but I have repeat guests and these dishes are very popular right now." He estimates that half of his customers order from this list.

Meeting guest's expectations is high on Senia's priority list, which is why he makes it a point to comes out of the kitchen and chat with the diners. "We are hoteliers," he states, adding that guests shouldn't be treated merely as a source of revenue. "It's not as important to have the restaurant full than it is to make guests happy."

And that makes him happy as a result. "Life is easy when you want to make it easy," he muses. "You have to make yourself happy and comfortable. So you better choose the right country."